Bacigalupi Apple Crisp

We have never really been a big cake eating family. Birthdays, holidays and special occasions always seem to be celebrated with a pie of some sorts. My grandma Helen makes some of the best pies in Sonoma County. With fresh fruits picked off the ranch she sometimes will spend an entire day making a pie; perfecting the dough and decorating it with her signature leaf design.  The following recipe isn’t exactly a pie but a very special dish to our family and quite easy to make, just make sure that you have a good peeler!

Slice 6 – 8 tart applies into a 2 quart baking dish (buttered)
We like to use Granny Smith or Gravenstein apples if avaliable

Cover the applies with:
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

Then pour over the apples 1/3 cup sweet white wine or sherry

Combine together for topping
1 cup flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/8 tsp salt
Work into the topping mixture 3/4 cup cold butter until mixture is crumbly.
Optional: Can chop up 1/2 cup nuts and sprinkle over topping. Also frozen cranberries can be added prior to placing in the oven.
Place in oven @ 350 degrees for 45 mins. Serve with whip cream or vanilla ice cream.

Challenging the status quo

It seems like there are wine writers, reviews, judgers and raters galore out there these days frankly, too many to keep up. But recently I read a column from Dan Berger’s Vintage Experience that caught my attention.

As Pinot Noir growers and now producers it seems to be more and more difficult to get some to understand our Pinot Noir program. We grow five different clones of Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley and trust me; they don’t call it the “heartbreak” grape for nothing. Pinot is a not only a difficult grape to grow but also a delicate wine to make.

Our extended ageing program in both barrel and bottle is meant to achieve the goal of releasing a finely aged, mature wine. But yet questions and confusion arise when we announce the release of our 2005 vintage…? While I realize that others are currently selling their 2007 Pinot Noir’s, we prefer that our wines are enjoyed when they are ready to drink, releasing them later then most producers.

I correlate it to the saying “wisdom comes with age.” Not only are older vintages more valuable, their quality is better, therefore creating a better experience for the customer. Wineries pushing out 2007 and 2008 vintages are usually more concerned about adding to their cash flow, but in turn the wine is released to young.

The following is an excerpt written by Dan Berger from his newsletter Vintage Experiences connecting his dilemma with having to judge young wines. Dan writes about one of his judging experiences with the late columnist Jerry Mead;

And then Jerry said, “If they’re going to keep passing laws, they oughta make it illegal to release any Pinot [Noir] until it’s 5 years old.

That thought came to mind this past Tuesday night when I joined with a host of Sonoma County wine makers to blind-taste 12 RRV Pinots from the 2006 vintage.

The conclusion everyone agreed to was that not one of the wines was in any condition to be evaluated. All were too young.

Yet every wine on the table had already been released, and most had been judged by a slick magazine or wine expert six months earlier! Pinot Noir is one grape variety ( and there are others) that simply defies any sort of critical analysis this early.

By age 2 1/2 most quality Pinots are barely old enough to crawl, let alone walk. As for displaying the depth and character of all the complexity that is in the wine, forget it.”

There are some wine writers and critics that touch on this subject but in my opinion, not as many that should.  Remembering that winemakers and producers are dealing with a living, breathing, ever changing entity helps to put things in perspective. While our reasons for releasing an older vintage when the market is flooded with new releases may be confusing to some, we stand by our philosophy and will continue to swim against the tide. After all, what’s life without a challenge?

Capturing the Here and Now

From left to right; Nicole, John, Pam, Helen, Charles and Katey Bacigalupi

It’s true that every family is different and with our lives being as busy as they are, it seems like as the days go by there is less and less time that we get to spend together. With work, the vineyards, projects, volunteering and other activities it is rare that we are all in the same spot at the same time. This is exactly why I jumped at the opportunity to get an updated family photo done other the day. While we have older photos available (circa 2002!) I felt that it was important to capture the moment in the here and now. Since starting this blog I carry a camera with me almost everywhere I go because you never know when a great photo will present itself. So when you have that minute at a family party, birthday or the holidays and you realize that you are all together, grab that camera!

Enjoying wine at any age, over 21 of course

 There is much to say about millennials, their demographics and their impact on the wine industry. With the craze of Facebook, Wine 2.0 and Open Wine Consortiumwine and technology have blended to appeal to this audience. Millennials have now given Baby Boomers a run for their money (literally) as the largest consumers of wine to date. While I will undoubtedly agree that data in this age range proves that milennials are a valued force in the market today I can’t help but ask myself; what about our elders? Though they may not drink as often or as much, their years of experience has led them to wines that suit their pallets. Living in wine country I have had the pleasure to meet some of these pioneers who are now “older” but basically helped to build the industry and survived many hardships. They are the few founding families that still exist today and let me tell you, they still enjoy their wine.
With the massive changes in the wine industry over the last century from technology and marketing to modifications in winemaking techniques and large multinational corporations I wondered what one would say about wine today having been present through these times. I recently sat down with my Grandmother; Anna Marie Heck who will be 92 years old this year and has experienced first hand some of these changes. She lived a good part of her life at Korbel Champagne Cellars, raising her family and supporting her husband in his business endeavors. I talked with her about some of her memories from Korbel and what she thinks about the wine industry today.

Me:  About how many years have you been drinking wine?
Anna Marie: The first wine I recall drinking was a sweet red wine back in St. Louis, Mo. where I was born and raised. Wines back then didn’t really have the name of the grape on them. They were usually a blend of several types of grapes and they just called it “red wine”. I think I was around 20 years old when I first started to drink wine.

Me: What are your fondest memories from your time living at Korbel?
Anna Marie: Paul and I moved to Korbel in 1953, the year before my youngest daughter was born. Paul had just left his job as manager at the Italian Swiss Colony and purchased Korbel with his brother and Carl Wente. I remember a lot of good times by the pool house. Paul would have friends from the industry and family over and we would BBQ and have wine and champagne. The kids would play in the pool or go for rides in the jeeps, it was a fun time.

Me: What do you like most about wine?
Anna Marie: I like how it brings people together, it’s something that can be enjoyed by family and friends around the table with a meal. I also like the history behind it. People have been drinking and celebrating with wine for centuries.

Me: What do you think have been the biggest changes in the wine industry during your lifetime?
Anna Marie: I have seen the wine industry expand more than I ever thought it would. Now many countries produce wine that didn’t before. Also the technology used in wineries is far more advanced then what we used and I think better wine is being made today because of that.

Me: What are your hopes for the wine industry in the future?
Anna Marie: Well that people continue to enjoy and drink wine and that it brings family and friends together.

So while there is no doubt that milennials are vital consumers of wine today, lets not forget that wine can be enjoyed at any age…..over 21 and including 92.

Spring it on!

It’s here! The first sign of bud break for 2009. I was walking with my dad the other day and noticed the first buds breaking out from one of our Chardonnay vineyards. This first emergence of growth that will eventually bear grapes. Most often vines in the Russian River will break later because of the cooler climate and fog cover. This is an exciting yet delicate process as threats of frost can come as late as May as seen in past years.

The transition from dormancy to bud break comes as the days lengthen and the soil is warmed by the bun, awakening the vine from its dormant state. The vine uses its stored energy and food to start producing new growth. From a pruned vine this new growth pushes out into the light eventually using the sunlight as its energy source. The next step after bedbreak is bloom when the buds begin to flower and we get the first glimpse of what this years harvest will bring.

Tasting room diary part 2

We are now in what I like to call “fun part” of the decision making process for the tasting room. While there is still a lot of paperwork, calculations and other not so fun decisions to make, we are getting closer to the actual construction of the building, which is very exciting and the part I have been waiting for!  I do not think that I was prepared for the extent of this project…and this is a small tasting room! We have been working closely with Lindsay our architect to really pin down how we want the building to both look and feel. My goal for this project has always been to keep it simple and clean yet rustic with a twist of refinement.

While this sounds easy to do, it can get really complicated.  I think our biggest challenge has been the design of the office/storage area. This space not only has to serve as our office but is also going to be our main wine storage area, which in the wine world means it must be temperature controlled. Yeah….So we decided to put in a small wine closet which we will seal and force cold air into so that the rest of the space won’t feel like Antarctica. The decisions that have to be made are endless, from where to put the fireplace to the size of the bar down to, do you want oil rubbed handles or bronze for the door and windows? It is enough to make you question your own sanity at times. I have learned a lot about architecture, lighting and what handicap accessible means. I have also learned how much fun it is dealing with the county….right. Even though we are very close to starting construction I still work daily on this project, it has definitely been a labor of love thus far. We are incorporating a rustic yet modern look that compliments the natural scenery of the area.

Here are some of the designs so far:

So we are wondering… what do you think is the most important design aspect of a tasting room? Is it the bar?  patio? fireplace? the bathroom perhaps? Let us know!

Isn’t Fennel a seed?

 Let’s be honest, I am no Martha Stewart. A lot of the cooking talents in my family lie with my grandma and mom. While I am learning to host my own delectable flair I still don’t know that much about the names of ingredients, spices ect. So imagine my surprise when my family and I attended the 6th Annual Russian River Valley Winegrowers Crab and Fennel Fest to find out the fennel is actually a very fibrous plant and a seed. I had always thought that Fennel was a seed but I learned that Fennel is also a hardy herb that when cooked is aromatic and flavorful. Crab and Fennel were the guests of honor and the event included all you could eat Dungeness crab with fennel, pasta and salad. The food was great but the best part was of course, the WINE! What makes this wine tasting unique is the emphasis put on vineyard designate wines. An entire table was dedicated to tasting vineyard designates from all over the Russian River Valley and allowing the public to meet the winemakers and growers behind these wines. There was no shortage of noteworthy producers including those of Williams Selyem, Merry Edwards and Papapietro Perry. This was Pinot Noir heaven!
Following dinner was the much anticipated spirited and fun-loving hermit crab races. 5$ gets you a ticket to bet on your own hermit crab from “Crabby” Chardonnay to “Zinful” Zinfandel you could chose which varietal hermit crab would wine the race. The winning ticket holder received great auction items such as dinner at Dry Creek Kitchen and an overnight stay at Hotel Healdsburg. Wanting to support my favorite varietal I placed my bet on the blue hermit crab representing Pinot Noir. Sprayed with a little “go juice” the crabs were slow to move at first but slowly crawled out of their shells. I’ve never been so intrigued by hermit crabs before! It was a long, well fought battle but in the end ”Crabby” the Chardonnay crab prevailed as the winner and I accepted defeat.
 For an auction donation John Tylerdonated 6 bottles of wine as well as a tour and tasting of Bacigalupi vineyards, including the famed Paris Tasting block. The lucky winners will spend a day with the family sampling our latest vintages and paired with an artisan cheese selection. 
What a great Sonoma County event, looking forward to the next one. And now I know what fennel is so no big surprises next year. Hey, you learn something new everyday!

Free the SO2

Taking barrels samples is an important and ongoing process in the world of winemaking. As the wine progresses and changes over time it is vital to consistently keep a close watch on the state of each barrel and additionally, the lot as a whole. Today we took samples of all the 2008 vintages mostly looking for levels of free SO2. Free SO2 or free sulfur protects the wine from oxidation and remains an invaluable tool for inhibiting bacteria that otherwise might spoil wine. Locally we use Vinquiry for all our wine analysis. They are quick with results and very friendly to work with. While sampling for SO2 this also gives us the opportunity to taste the lots combined to get an idea of how the wine is developing. The following are the notes from this barrel sampling.

2008 Pinot Noir Free Run, 20 barrels- At this time the wine shows a supple texture which is difficult to come by with a young Pinot Noir. You tend to get all the viscosity and weight but loose all the varietal character of the fruit. We tend to extend cap time by controlling the temperature for a long, cool fermentation

2008 Pinot Noir Free Run in T-bins, 9 barrels- We added 5 tons of whole clusters for fermentation. The whole berries lend themselves to letting you hold onto the carbonic maceration, adding more fruit character. This wine has a little sharper edge to the finish from slightly higher acid.

2008 Pinot Noir Press Wine, 2 barrels-We barrel the press wine separately from the free run so I can blend appropriately. This wine is progressing very well with good weight and nice fruit. It will assimilate nicely with the free run juice.

2008 Zinfandel Free Run, 12 barrels- What I love most about our Zinfandel is that it is technically dry (no residual sugar) but it doesn’t appear to be so when you first taste it. We are also producing a 100% Zinfandel, single vineyard designate designed to showcase the true varietal characteristic.

2008 Zinfandel Press Wine, 2 barrels- Great fruit, good acid and tannin

2008 Petite Sirah Free Run, 5 barrels- This is our inaugural vintage and what I like best about this wine is it’s incredibly balanced, already at an early stage. The trick with PS is finding the right balance between tannin and acid. Additionally like all well made wines it has a deep and vibrant color.

Who else makes a Bacigalupi vineyard designate?

From their 53 years in the wine making and grape growing business, my grandparents Charles and Helen have collected quite a variety of wine from over the years. From these years in the industry, we have also sold grapes to over approximately 50 wineries and wine producers ranging from Northern California and Napa Valley to Manhattan. With all this history, I thought it might be fun to do some detective work and raid my grandparents wine collection.  Their cellar isn’t fancy by any means and although humble in appearance it holds some real gems and resembles their 53 years in the business. Here is a closer look at some of the wineries that have produced Bacigalupi vineyard designate wines: past and present.

Most recently– during the 2008 harvest–we sold a Dijion clone Pinot Noir to City Winery located in downtown Manhattan. City Winery gives urban wine enthusiasts the opportunity to craft their own wine without even leaving Manhattan. The opening of this winerymarks the first time that wine has been produced in Manhattan since the repeal of prohibition.

Rudd Chardonnay

Possibly even more recognizable is Rudd in Napa Valley. For the past decade Rudd has purchased the famed Paris tasting block of Chardonnay and produced a vineyard designate under their label. These same vines were the source of the legendary 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay. Winemaker Charles Thomas creates a chardonnay that is truly old world in character.

Perhaps as identifiable is Williams Selyem–located right up the road from us in Russian River Valley. With a waiting list for their wines at just over a year, this producer of small lot Zinfandels and Pinot Noirs has been purchasing fruit from our vineyards for the past nine years.

Armida Pinot Noir

Another great winery, also located on Westside Road is Armida. Co-owner Bruce Cousins is so easy to work with because he understands the importance of cultivating relationships with growers and has been producing a Bacigalupi Pinot Noir for the past five years.

Recently crafted from winemaker Danny Glover along with the support of friends Nora and Curt Cravens was born the venture of Glover Cravens Wines. It was a long time dream of Danny’s to create a great Pinot Noir and in 2006 he purchased a ton of Pinot Noir from our Frost Ranch vineyard.  His inaugural vintage is now released.

Foppiano Petite Sirah

Known for their Petite Sirah production as well as being one of the oldest still family owned wineries in Sonoma County,  the Foppiano‘s have purchased petite sirah grapes from my grandparents for many years. Over this time our two families developed friendships that span over several generations and is still present today.

For several years during the 1980′s Belevedere Winery produced a Chardonnay with the Bacigalupi Vineyard designate. The winery was sold recently and was re-named C. Donatiello but my grandparents still have a few bottles left with the old label.

 

What is your favorite wine from the Bacigalupi Vineyards?